The Science of ‘Fun’
Ask any surfer why they surf, the quick answer at its core will likely have something to do with being “fun.” Why else would surfers put themselves through all the obstacles of having the right gear, dealing with crowds, finding perfect timing, managing all types of weather, and adjusting to wave volatility, to name a few. It must be fun. Not all fun is created equal, which is why winter surfing is in its own category of ‘fun.’
There is simple fun, the kind where you have a smile on your face throughout the experience, never wanting it to end. When you absolutely must get out of the water for fuel, you are exhausted or have something scheduled, you are reluctant to go. Winter surfing is typically not this kind of ‘fun,’ it’s more like ‘hard earned fun’ where you appreciate the experience much later. Have you taken a surf trip where many things go wrong but at the end you reflect on the experience as worthwhile and more memorable? Learning and struggling is not always compelling in the moment, but getting out of the comfort zone builds character, skills and reminds us to be more present than on auto pilot. It is not necessarily celebratory because it was awesome, it more of a celebration that you got through it.
While it might seem like surfing in the winter is doing something you love and to be in nature even when it is cold, there may be a deeper, subconscious pay-off for the accomplishment of getting through it. Downtime after an activity is usually rewarding and is much more so when it is hard work. Building more confidence and likely more fulfilling, this type of hard ‘fun’ is probably why we surf. Rather than this style of fun being the exception, it may be the other way around where this is the norm that keeps us coming back, and the anomaly are those fun, liberating sessions where everything is easier and just goes well. The sweet spot is the type of hard fun that is not so full of fear that the activity becomes too threatening but triggers just enough drive to feel energized to overcome the perceived challenges. If you notice your mood post-winter session, check if it has something to do with being warm again, feeling sad it is over, or feeling like a well-deserved achievement for participating and getting it done.
