Escape from Paradise with Ingrid Lemme-Chalut

Dover’s Majestic Cliffs & Canterbury’s Sacred Splendor

One of the highlights of our latest adventure was finally seeing the iconic White Cliffs of Dover and the historic Canterbury Cathedral, all while cruising up Europe’s West Coast. Our epic voyage began in Fort Lauderdale in April, where Holland America’s flagship, the ms Rotterdam, set sail across the ocean and up Europe’s west coast. A treasure trove of fascinating ports awaited us along the way on this repositioning cruise. For the uninitiated, a repositioning cruise is a special type of cruise that takes place when a cruise line moves its ships from one region to another, usually at the beginning or end of the peak season. These cruises often offer great value for passengers as they tend to be less expensive than traditional cruises, despite offering more sea days and sometimes unique itineraries. They’re a great option for those who enjoy relaxing at sea, as the crossing to the Old World usually takes 6 days.

It was about 6 am when a light knocking at our cabin door announced that room service had arrived with a pot of PGTips and a couple of their highly addictive almond croissants. What a fantastic way to wake up, especially since I was afraid of missing our entry into the English channel! After I tipped the impeccably dressed young man, I drew the curtains of our wall-to-wall balcony window and let out a scream of delight as the glistening White Cliffs of Dover rose up before us. It was a breathtaking sight from our balcony, and later from the decks and the large windows of the Lido restaurant during breakfast.

For thousands of years, the White Cliffs have marked the edge of England, an enduring symbol of the nation. They’ve been a soldier’s last glimpse of home and the first welcome upon return; a defensive barrier, a protector of the nation. In 1940, as Nazi Germany gathered at Calais, the English fortified the cliffs with gun emplacements and tunnels, inspiring the WWII song “The White Cliffs of Dover” and its promise of peace and freedom. The White Cliffs, an iconic British landmark, offer breathtaking views that are best appreciated from both the water and land. From the deck of the ms Rotterdam, the cliffs rose majestically from the sea, their brilliant white chalk glistening even under an overcast sky. As our ship sailed along the shoreline, passengers marveled in excitement at the sheer scale and uniformity of the towering cliffs, which stretch for miles.

In contrast, a land-based visit provides an intimate exploration of the cliffs’ texture, flora, and fauna. The White Cliffs Country Trail and other footpaths allow hikers to traverse the cliff tops, taking in the panoramic views of the English Channel and the French coastline on a clear day. A footpath winds along the 14-mile cliff edge, offering spectacular views over wildflower-filled meadows. The cliffs soar highest at St. Margaret’s Bay, a sheltered cove where the wall of white rock rises dramatically. The path eventually descends into Dover, a bustling port nestled in a narrow gorge. Visitors can also delve into the cliffs’ geological and military history at the Dover Museum. Ultimately, experiencing the White Cliffs of Dover from both the water and land provides a richer, more well-rounded appreciation of this natural and cultural treasure. However, we’d decided to join one of HAL’s tour bus excursions from the port and finally cross Canterbury Cathedral off our bucket list as well.

From Dover we journeyed north through a rolling green countryside to medieval Canterbury, site of the magnificent Canterbury Cathedral. This historic site is a place of worship, a pilgrimage destination, and an architectural masterpiece. Founded by St. Augustine in 597 AD, it’s the principal seat of the Archbishop of Canterbury and the worldwide Anglican Communion. The cathedral tells the story of a Christian community and a witness of faith shaping a nation. It’s where the stories of church and state intersect, where the martyrdom of Archbishop Thomas Becket elevated Canterbury into a major pilgrimage site, a place of miracle and transformation, where faith and history meet.

While we were grateful to experience firsthand the fascination of Canterbury Cathedral, we were also looking forward to discovering a little bit of the medieval town that doesn’t just draw from locals, but thousands of visitors every day. Thankfully we had an hour in Canterbury on our own before returning to the ship at Dover and got to indulge in a strong cup ‘o English tea and a decadent piece of hazelnut-coffee-rum cake at Teastones, one of the little cafes. The charming-rustic Teastones Mixery, (Teastones.co.uk) located in close proximity of the Canterbury Castle gate, offers over 65 teas, leaves freshly brewed strong in typical English style, and a variety of to die for home-baked cakes that made my husband’s taste buds sing.

On the way back to our ship, a photo stop revealed a breathtaking view of Dover Castle. This 2000-year-old fortress, with its labyrinthine tunnels and battlements, whispers tales of royal intrigue, fierce sieges, and its crucial role in the Dunkirk evacuation. Perched atop the iconic white cliffs, Dover Castle has stood watch over the English Channel for centuries. This fortress, with its commanding views and complex history, is a testament to England’s strategic military importance. From its Roman origins to its role in World War II, Dover Castle has played a pivotal part in the nation’s defense. Today, visitors can explore the castle’s secret wartime tunnels, and even experience a recreation of a Napoleonic era naval cannon fire. With its rich history, stunning architecture, and unparalleled views, Dover Castle is a must-visit destination for anyone interested in military history, archaeology, or simply experiencing the grandeur of a bygone era. We hope that someday we’ll get to sail up Europe’s West Coast again and, when we’re lucky enough to dock in Dover once more, the Dover Castle and/or the land excursion of the White Cliffs will be at the top of our list. With full hearts and cameras, we bid farewell to Dover, ready for the next chapter in our epic adventure.

Until next month from another interesting location.